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Natural, recycled, ecological fabrics: the textile sector has long relied on solutions and labels focused on sustainability, partly due to its unfortunate leading role in environmental pollution and the growing consumer interest in alternatives aligned with their ethical principles. However, given such a wide and diverse range of offerings, there is a risk of confusion or of equating two or more products that evoke the same image but are actually very different in quality.
For this reason, over the years several certifications have emerged that attest to companies’ commitment to supplying and producing truly “green” materials. One of these is the Global Organic Textile Standard, the most important worldwide certification for organic fibers. Let’s explore what it entails and why it is so relevant in the textile processing landscape, including packaging.
What is the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification?
The GOTS certification certifies that organic textile products are made according to eco-friendly processes that respect people. It was developed by four international organizations leading organic agriculture: the OTA-Organic Trade Association (USA), IVN (Germany), Soil Association (UK), and JOCA-Japanese Organic Cotton Association (Japan).
The certificate – which is voluntary – covers all stages of processing, from spinning and weaving to production and marketing, thus ensuring traceability and integrity of products from raw material to finished article.
The criteria to be met are quite rigorous and concern environmental aspects, including the management of chemicals and wastewater; and social aspects, such as the prohibition of forced and child labor and the promotion of fair wages. When a company decides to undergo the audit, it appoints an independent third party to inspect the entire supply chain and issue the certificate of compliance.
Organic fibers
Organic fibers are a key element of GOTS environmental criteria. The standard requires that fibers come from certified organic agriculture, a regulated and certified production method for sustainable land management.
The essential characteristics of organic fibers are their natural origin, production methods, and the resulting benefits for people and the environment.
Specifically, these fibers may come from plants (such as cotton, flax or hemp) or animals (such as wool, silk or cashmere). They must be produced without harmful pesticides, herbicides, and synthetic fertilizers. The absence of these harmful substances reduces the risk of health problems for farmers and for the final consumer, who would be exposed to chemical residues.
The use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs) is also prohibited in organic agriculture due to their potential negative effects on human health and ecosystems. Eliminating harmful chemicals limits water pollution, benefiting biodiversity and soil fertility.
Chemical and environmental criteria
The standard requires the use of organic fibers originating from certified organic agriculture which, as discussed, ensures that no dangerous chemicals end up in the final product or in the environment. Accordingly, GOTS prohibits the use of heavy metals and over 1000 toxic compounds commonly used in the textile industry. Only dyes and chemical auxiliaries approved by the standard are allowed in certified processing chains.
Furthermore, environmental management is among the requirements subject to evaluation.
GOTS mandates, for example, the implementation of efficient wastewater treatment plants. Certified entities must also develop a written document detailing their chemical and environmental policy, which must include information on energy consumption, waste, emissions release, and overall efforts to minimize impact on nature and its resources.
Human rights and social criteria
In addition to environmental concerns, participants in the certification must comply with certain ethical principles: social criteria that ensure responsible and transparent business practices and apply to all stages of processing and manufacturing in the textile value chain, from raw fiber harvesting to labelling. In other words, respect for human rights must be guaranteed throughout the entire chain. This commitment is reflected, among other things, in the absence of child or forced labor; in workplaces free from discrimination and abuse; in fair and equal procedures for all workers; in reasonable working hours and wages; and in all practices that promote staff wellbeing, health, and safety.
Which products does it apply to
So far we have reviewed the key factors for certification. But who can apply and for which products?
GOTS certifies a wide range of textile and combined products, provided they contain a minimum of 70% natural fibers from organic agriculture, including:
- clothing and garments;
- fabrics, fibers and yarns (intermediate products);
- home textiles, including towels, tablecloths, and rugs;
- mattresses and bedding;
- combined products such as furniture and baby strollers;
- personal hygiene products, such as diapers, feminine pads, makeup remover wipes, and cotton swabs;
- toys and fabric accessories;
- textiles in contact with food.
Certain manufacturing activities (such as printing or dyeing) can also be certified if they meet the standard’s requirements. The same applies to chemical products used in the textile industry, which must pass specific toxicological and ecotoxicological tests.
Types of labels and their meaning
There are two GOTS labels that may be affixed to finished textile products, differentiated by the percentage of certified organic fibers contained. The “organic” label indicates a product containing 95% or more certified organic fibers; the remaining 5% may consist of other fibers approved by the standard. The “made with organic” label means the content is at least 70%, with the rest also meeting required criteria.
In addition to these two main grades based on percentage, GOTS also provides labels for fibers produced during the conversion period from conventional to organic agriculture, known as organic fibers in conversion: “organic in-conversion” and “made with organic in-conversion.” However, producers must be in transition for at least 12 months to use these labels.
How to obtain GOTS certification
Obtaining GOTS certification is a rigorous and comprehensive process based on on-site inspection and verification by accredited independent third-party certification bodies. After choosing the certification body and agreeing on costs, key steps include:
- preliminary assessment: the process begins with an initial audit of products and production processes, including verification of product composition, compliance of organic raw materials and suppliers, and suitability of chemicals used;
- on-site audit to verify actual compliance with GOTS criteria, correct organization of manufacturing processes, and adherence to relevant environmental and social standards. The inspection includes accounting review, control of processing and storage systems, and identification of risk areas. Social criteria are checked through a series of interviews (including confidential ones);
- issuance of the Scope Certificate (SC): if the company demonstrates capability to meet GOTS criteria, it receives the Scope Certificate. This certifies that the holder is authorized to produce the listed types of textile products in compliance with the standard. Companies with a valid SC are considered certified GOTS suppliers and are listed in the public GOTS database;
- issuance of the Transaction Certificate (TC): the Scope Certificate certifies company eligibility but does not prove that a specific batch is GOTS certified. To confirm that a supply of sold products is compliant, a TC is issued; this document certifies that the entire shipment complies with GOTS and can be used for further processing or trade.
- use of the GOTS trademark: once certified, the company receives a license to apply the GOTS logo on its products and communication materials. This logo provides consumers with a credible guarantee of organic origin and responsible processing.
What happens after certification?
GOTS certification is not a one-time procedure ending with the issuance of the certificate; it requires ongoing compliance. Therefore, after the initial certification, third-party bodies conduct annual surveillance and some unannounced inspections to verify continuous compliance. Non-conformities, if found, are assessed and a timeline for correction is usually provided.
Why choosing GOTS-certified fabrics is strategic for companies
As with other certifications aimed at promoting eco-sustainable practices (such as the Global Recycled Standard), the Global Organic Textile Standard also represents an advantage for companies in many respects.
First of all, it strengthens the trust of consumers and business partners: GOTS is recognized as the global leading standard for organic fabric processing. Therefore, textile producers and packagers can export their products with an organic certification accepted in all major markets.
According to a 2024 GOTS survey, 60% of certified companies reported increased commercial opportunities due to the label.
The certification also guarantees that the commitment to organic raw materials and products upstream is not compromised in downstream processing. It provides a comprehensive assessment from both environmental and social perspectives: a certificate which, through an extensive and thorough investigation of the entire supply chain, reassures buyers (both companies and end consumers).
In summary, adopting GOTS-certified fabrics for products or packaging is strategic because it offers a 360-degree sustainability promise essential to stand out in an increasingly attentive market and to ensure compliance with high-quality standards accepted internationally.
